I have tried a number of different aluminum-specific bits, and this one works significantly better than the other I have tried: Kodiak B007BTPPVM (1/8 SE 2FL REG – ALUM). One critical component here is the cutting bit. If you don’t, you sometimes don’t cut all the way through when drilling, because the material “pushes back” a bit.įor everything else (elongated holes, cutouts, etc), I use these parameters: (You don’t actually notice the passes, because it just does one after the other strait down through the material, but this does create a brief pause between each step to give more time to clear out the material.) I also go. I also do two other things differently when drilling: When you plunge strait down, you are cutting with the tip of the bit only, and this actually takes more time, so I slow the plunge rate way down to. Since both the bit and the hole are 3mm, I actually indicate in my “drilling” configuration that the tool is 2.9mm so that it will generate a tool path that is inside the circle rather than on it. When you cut them, your router essentially draws a circle instead of just plunging strait down, and I have found that due to a small amount of flex in the system, including the bit, the holes are sometimes less symmetrical when you “cut” as opposed to “drill.” The bolt holes are 3mm, and I have found that you are better off to simply “drill” these rather than “cut” them. (You can actually cut the carbon fiber much faster than this.) But I do plunge all the way through the material and then cut the full 2mm in one pass.Īnd for the aluminum, I use a couple of different strategies depending on the type of cut. But if it struggles any, just reduce the cut depth/feed rate and try again.įor this project, I actually used the same feed rate and plunge rate for cutting both the carbon fiber and the aluminum. The quiet-cut spindle should work fine with these parameters. This is in response to another forum member’s questions about cutting parameters: This is intentional and helps to ensure good results.Īlthough I have not provided a lot of details here, please feel free to reach out to me if you are interested in building this project, and I would be happy to answer any questions you may have. Also note that they are different depending upon the type of cut your are doing (cutouts vs. And so far, the bit that I have gotten the best results with is the Kodiak b007btppvm bit (1/8 SE 2FL REG – ALUM).Īnd use the provided sample tool path parameters as a starting point. The carbon fiber is fairly simple, and a standard composites bit will work fine.įor the aluminum, the bit makes a huge difference (as do the tool path parameters). I have included sample tool paths that have worked well for me for both the carbon fiber and aluminum. The most critical part of this project is knowing how to cut the frame pieces and arms using your X-Carve machine. If you are interested in building this type of project, you are probably already familiar with how to build a quadcopter, and I won’t explain that here. But how you ultimately configure this is up to you. If you put your ESCs (motor controllers) between the lower and middle decks, you can cut aluminum or carbon-fiber spaces (design file included) to place above and/or below your arms to allow enough room for the ESCs. Aluminum spacers of various lengths can be purchase online or at your local hobby shop. The main trick is spacing the lower, middle and upper decks of the main frame to accommodate the electronics you chose. And how you assemble this quad will depend upon what electronic and mechanical parts you chose. This design can accommodate any number of flight controllers, ESC, motors, etc.
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